After a successful wild animal photoshoot behind us (catch up with Serengeti safari posts one, two, and three), we headed south to the Ngorongoro conservation area. Ngorongoro means “hole” in the Masai language, which refers to an incredibly large crater (caldera actually). Surrounding the crater is protected land for the Masai people. The Masai can also … More Ngorongoro and the Masai
As we began our Serengeti safari we kept hearing the term “the Big Five”. If we had seen the big five yet, wishing us luck on seeing all big five, and so on. Jesse, the calloused safari veteran, knew the term well (and happened to not have seen all five yet), but I didn’t know … More Serengeti: the Big 5
And then it happened. As we were spotting crocs in the river, a smaller herd (a few hundred) approached the river bank. Unaware or unfazed by their ill-fated brethren, they mustered their collective courage and then charged into the river … More Serengeti: The Crossing
After three weeks of roughing it with daily trekking and minimal bathing, we were really looking forward to running water, 6 days of being driven around to look at animals, staying in relative luxury, and relaxing a little. … More Serengeti: Wildlife everywhere!
Since we finished Kilimanjaro early, we had a free day for licking our wounds, taking extended showers, and celebrating. So we invited our guide, Mathayo, out on the town. We headed out to Mkulima (farmer in Swahili), a nyama choma joint. Nyama choma is the tradional BBQ of East Africa, with a typical menu offering whole … More Celebratory sustenance in Moshi
When we envisioned climbing Kilimanjaro, we pictured manageable hikes gaining modest elevation on non-technical slopes surrounded by beautiful views, like from the Shira Plateau, Barranco, and Barafu (don’t forget to read these parts). That all was reasonably accurate until the moment we were awoken at midnight to start our summit attempt, in the dark, up scree, … More Kilimanjaro finale: Uhuru
Previously in part 2: we’d made it to Karanga camp (13,200 ft) around noon and brashly decided to forfeit a day of rest and a full night’s sleep and march on to base camp, Barafu. We would make our summit push that night, thus shortening our trek from 7 to 6 days. As we rose out … More Kilimanjaro part 3: Thinner air