After about 30 offers of black tea, it was time to get down to business. Our trekking guru/salesman, Javeed, looked us up and down and offered an alternate trek, billed as “challenging”. He waved his hand over some blank spaces on the map with no trail markings and our fate was decided. … More Ladakh part 1: Trek Roulette and Himalayan Narcolepsy
On arrival, we hired a car. The driver spoke no English and would pull over randomly to smoke. Nevertheless we layed our lives in his nictotine stained hands as we drove to Agra and the Taj Mahal. … More The Taj Mahal and a little bit of Delhi
After a successful wild animal photoshoot behind us (catch up with Serengeti safari posts one, two, and three), we headed south to the Ngorongoro conservation area. Ngorongoro means “hole” in the Masai language, which refers to an incredibly large crater (caldera actually). Surrounding the crater is protected land for the Masai people. The Masai can also … More Ngorongoro and the Masai
As we began our Serengeti safari we kept hearing the term “the Big Five”. If we had seen the big five yet, wishing us luck on seeing all big five, and so on. Jesse, the calloused safari veteran, knew the term well (and happened to not have seen all five yet), but I didn’t know … More Serengeti: the Big 5
And then it happened. As we were spotting crocs in the river, a smaller herd (a few hundred) approached the river bank. Unaware or unfazed by their ill-fated brethren, they mustered their collective courage and then charged into the river … More Serengeti: The Crossing
After three weeks of roughing it with daily trekking and minimal bathing, we were really looking forward to running water, 6 days of being driven around to look at animals, staying in relative luxury, and relaxing a little. … More Serengeti: Wildlife everywhere!
Since we finished Kilimanjaro early, we had a free day for licking our wounds, taking extended showers, and celebrating. So we invited our guide, Mathayo, out on the town. We headed out to Mkulima (farmer in Swahili), a nyama choma joint. Nyama choma is the tradional BBQ of East Africa, with a typical menu offering whole … More Celebratory sustenance in Moshi